Saturday, 5 November 2011

This Is How We Do It......

Coming up with new hats for my little business causes me no end of grief....it's a process I hate to be quite honest.....I get excited about finding new patterns, but the work that goes into re-sizing, re-knitting, amending and a great amount of mathematics which I'm useless at drives me to despair at times.

Apart from a couple of hats that I designed myself, all of Dover & Maddens hats are derived from knitting patterns from the 1930's through to the 1970's.....I take vintage knits and adapt them for the modern bub....and I think I do it reasonably well.

For every 10 patterns I come across and re-knit I'm maybe lucky to find one that works and will make it to a usable style.

Whilst finishing off Etsy orders I'm also trying to sneak in some pattern re-designing at the moment....I'm revisiting a bonnet that I originally made a couple of years ago and then decided it wasn't for Dover & Madden.  I've decided to revisit it and just do a bit more work on it.....the back of the bonnet is what I don't like so I'm going to play around with it so it's not so puffy and full as the picture shows....I want it to sit a bit flatter.....Here's the original one I made, and the re-knit on it's way to being complete.





















I've named this the "Houndstooth Hat"....just because of the pattern, and as you can see I'm doing it with two shades of the one colour....I originally knitted this hat in pink and green, and I was asked if I had been smoking "crack"....It did look awful....I re-knitted it in the same tones....and it was perfect....so sometimes bright contrast is not always the best option for a hat....and it can be something as simple as colour that will make or break a hat for me.




















I have another two hats on the go as well....both of these I have my fingers crossed that they work because I'm in love with both of them.  They may not be both released as Dover & Madden hats at the same time....but I like to have the patterns altered and ready to go for a new knit when I feel like it.  This little one is quite unusual.....so stay tuned....but I do love the coloured stripes that will run from the top of the forehead down to the base of the neck....and yes it is looking an odd shape but that's what will give it, it's final shape so  hopefully it will look good enough once it's completed.





















And finally this one....excuse the colour....funnily enough most of my prototypes I somehow always knit in blue tones....I don't know why but I'm drawn to blue, but this one I did think needed contrast, and I hate this contrast....again pink and green that in my book is two colours that are both too strong and end up fighting against each other....I should have gone with a leaf green and a hot pink rather than jade and watermelon pink.  Anyway this one is the third prototype I'm working on and I really have my fingers crossed for this one.





















I also find that knitting stitch books are a great source of knowledge for me....a simple hat can be transported from something quite plain to something quite fantastic, with a simple pattern....such as my Dottie Hat below.

Once the hat is knitted I send them to a wonderful photographer in the US who found me on Etsy (another blog post I think) Joy Wright Photography shes finds the necessary bubs in the size of the hat and sends me the most fab photos and then the hat goes up for sale.



























So that's how things come about.....a slow process but a necessary process.....I like to keep evolving and changing, I too get bored knitting the same things all of the time....it also means that possibly a couple of hats will disappear for a time....maybe just a rest and a revamp.


Until next time

Vicki x

Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Thank You

Just a quick thank you for all the lovely comments and links to other blogs....especially Little Poppa and Knitty Button....with reference to my blog post....Fair Pay for a Fair Day's Work....I've been overwhelmed with the hits and the comments and the messages I've received.....For those who have been told to check out my Etsy store from Knitty Button....I'd like to apologise for the lack of stock....I'm winding up orders and then looking to do a bit of a re-vamp with some new stock starting to roll off the knitting needles around mid November.....If you want to keep up with the comings and goings of Dover & Madden....feel free to stop by my Facebook page and I'll do my best to keep you entertained!!  Kindest, Vicki x

Tuesday, 1 November 2011

Cup Day

It's Melbourne Cup Day today in Melbourne....The day the whole nations stops for a horse race.....I'm working today so it's not a public holiday for me but I thought I'd share a cup with you.....well a creamer and sugar bowl really......Vintage Noritake in Canary Yellow.  Enjoy your Cup Day everyone or Tuesday the 1st November for the rest of us!!



Monday, 31 October 2011

WIPs, UFOs and USOs.....How many do you have?

WIPs, UFOs and USOs......What is she talking about?  I'm talking about works in progress, unfinished objects and unstarted objects.....the acronyms of the crafter!!  Well a WIP is definitely one, but I don't hear the other 2 used that often so maybe I've just made them up......but they are soooo suitable for me.

I always like to have lots of projects on the go, and as long as they get a weekly going over, whether that's taken out of the knitting bag or storage box or some work done on them even if it's just a row knitted or a square crocheted....it does not fit into any of the above 3 acronyms. 

A project only becomes one of the above three acronyms if it hasn't been touched in about a month or so....let me explain......

Firstly the WIP, the Work in Progress....this is a project I'm still craving to do, but time has just got away but it's going to get finished sooner rather than later.  Here are some of those.....

The Raspberry Ripple as it has become known as, I'm itching to get this finished, so it is my No.1 WIP.






















Another WIP is my pastel Circle in a Square project.....I started this in Kyneton around 5 weeks ago....this project I'm loving....the pretty, pretty pastels make such a nice change to the bright yarns I normally work with and the white borders are pure white, some of you will know my stance on white!!....All in merino, silk and cashmere.





















My new Baby Bullseye with alpaca borders....I've decided I'm going to be making one boy blanket and one girl blanket.....I've got all the colours sorted and this project is another one I'm itching to pick up and get moving on.





















Now the next category is the UFO or the Unfinished object....this item was started with great gusto and for whatever reason I just lost interest, or it just seemed to be such a big project, or something better came along....it's normally the latter!!

This cardigan I started for myself around 2 years ago.....as you can see I'm a quarter of the way up the back and that's it really.  I have all the yarn to finish it, and when I pulled it out to finish it, I did feel a little bad. It's a complicated pattern, all cables, so it's hard to do whilst watching the TV, so I think that's why it got rested then forgotten.  Anyway I've popped it in the *freezer along with all the yarn to finish it and I think it's going to be moving up to a WIP!!





















and what it will eventually look like when completed.....





















Another is a crochet cushion just made out of leftover 10ply cotton.....just mixed colours.  I'm doing up a couple of chairs, one that I sit on to type here at the computer, and it's matching buddy is in the living room....just thought the bedroom or computer chair needed a bit of cheering up with a cushion.....it's only a small project and would only take another couple of hours to finish.






































Baby Cashmerino cabled coat for my Etsy store.....enough said.





















and finally a tweed wool baby blanket.....





















The last category is the USO, or the Unstarted object....the yarn was purchased but the project never got underway......embarrassing really.
 
 
Eco Organic Cotton Baby Pullover for my Etsy Store.....





















Again more cotton for little striped cardigans for my Etsy store.





















And lastly my collection of vintage Fuzzy Wuzzy yarn, all put aside for some limited edition baby booties.






































So there you have it.......the shame of the crafter, and I know I'm not alone......How many of you have hidden projects all stashed away from prying eyes, yet continue to bring more crafty goodness into your home? 

Do tell......

Until next time.

Vicki x



*Freezer....just a tip for some of you....I store all my yarn in plastic tubs, for cleanliness and to keep any little critters out of it (really only refers to wool, silk or cashmere).....the project in question has been in storage for some time, so for piece of mind I always wrap these up in a plastic bag and put them in the deep freeze....if there are any critters in the yarn they freeze to death....the project comes out of the freezer for 12 hours then back in for a final 48 hours.  I have heard of infestations of critters in wool....touch wood I'm very vigilant and use cedar and lavender in all my storage tubs just to be sure. so I can't say I've ever had a problem.

Saturday, 29 October 2011

Fair pay for a Fair day's work?

Costing one's work is a difficult thing to do....trying to balance what people will pay while trying to make some sort of profit is really a hard call.  I've read, heard and listened as other sellers battle with the same problems.  I've put my point across on Etsy's blog when people have openly criticised others for the price they charge for handcraft pieces of work.  So I thought I'd break it down for you to the best I can....I'm probably going to learn something myself here!!  Please also consider when reading this, it is my breakdown of costing....please don't judge any other work by what I do or what I charge....this is entirely my own experience and what I have to do to make it viable...if it is at all.....and remember I do this because I want to and I can.  I'm never going to make millions but that's not what it is about for me.

I'm going to use one of my Cashmerino Earflap Hats as an example....This is the completed article and take into consideration these hats come in 4 sizes. Reality is there is really not a huge amount of difference between the knitting of a newborn hat and a 36month old hat....maybe a wee little bit more time and some extra yarn, but they both still need to be knitted, sewn up, buttons purchased, buttons sewn on, straps made and put on, cotton logo sewn on which involves a sewing machine...both hats are put in the same size tuff envelope and both driven to the post office for sending....so I do see why some sellers charge the same price for their hats no matter what size.....I charge different prices for different sizes, if it's bigger you pay more....that's my pricing structure.























The only items I buy wholesale for my business are yarn but that is only some brands which include Debbie Bliss...so for these little hats the yarn is priced wholesale....so I'm basing my costings on a 4M to 10M baby hat.

Yarn alone....even though there are 3 colours of yarn in these hats I add the total quantity of yarn together. So just under one ball.

Wholesale price for yarn used. $6.50, this includes the GST and the postage I am charged for delivery of said yarn, I have to pass that cost on.  This cost then goes back into buying more yarn, so I basically I never see that money at all it continually goes back into the buying kitty.

Buttons x 3 @ 90c each.  I purchase these retail so total $2.70.  I know you can get cheaper buttons, but cheaper buttons look exactly like that....cheap, and as these buttons are a feature they have to look good.

Now you might just be thinking well that's $9.20 and she sells these hats for $29.50 so she's made a $20.30 profit....well here is where the other bits and pieces come out.

Firstly as it's income it has to be declared to the tax dept, so I need to take out around $2 per hat to put aside to pay for any extra tax at the end of the financial year, it's probably a little too much but I like to be prepared...so we're down to $18.30.  I then take out another $1.00 per hat to cover heating and lighting whilst working at home... these utilities aren't really tax deductible because the tax department see you as being home so therefore you'd have the lights on anyway....now we're down to $17.30, cellophane bag to pack the hat in 10c, postcard, $1, sew in label in hat 20c, and swing tag 5c each...so that's another $1.35 .... we're now down to $15.95.

To be fair some of these items do get included as tax deductions but take into consideration I have had to outlay the money for these prior, and sometimes big bucks that I never really see any return on but I think they are a necessary part of the business....advertising and marketing in a way....and presentation is paramount in my book.  So we're at $15.95 now....I'm not going to include postage as I do charge for that, so that really is the end of my costings.

Well $15.95 profit, that's ok you say....yep not bad, but it leaves me no room at all for wholesale, which is why I don't offer it at all now....if I did offer wholesale this hat would have to be marked up by another $15 or so dollars, making it then retail for around $44.50....out of most peoples price range I believe.


 




















Anyway let's take my $15.95 and then consider the fees I have had to pay to list the item and I also pay the paypal fee, so take out on average another $1.50 then I'm left with $14.45.

Lastly divide it up now into hours worked....knitting, sewing and finishing off this hat comes in at 4.25 hrs and photographing, listing and packing up the hat comes in at around 0.75 so totaling around 5 hours of work for this hat alone so there you have it people I really am working for $2.89 per hour!!!  So now you understand my total frustration at people who constantly criticise crafters and state that they could make whatever the item for next to nothing and then also unfairly compare a hand made item to a mass produced item made in Asia and India and the like and say we charge too much.  My blood boils!

Look I know this seems quite extreme and my little business is just me, so yes, the $14.45 goes into my pocket but by god I work damn hard for it and it is a lot of work for little return....but I love doing it, I love seeing my hats on little heads and it keeps me occupied...I spend a lot of time at home, so I thank goodness I can do something in front of the telly!

I will also add that some hats, I do make a bit more money from and some I don't, so swings and roundabouts.....blankets are a hell of a lot of work and a lot of hours again for not a huge return, but it's the creativeness I crave more than anything else.

So there you go people just thought you might want to keep this in mind the next time you consider a handmade product.  There is a lot of love and (underpaid) time put into it...but it is worth the price.


Post script added 24th July 2012.


I still see a lot of people pop over and read this post....since writing this post I have changed my pricing structure greatly.   There has been price rises in wholesale price of yarn, and I've had to value myself a bit more and make sure I pay myself properly.

After much thought I decided that my prices needed to be the same for all hat sizes....the work really is the same so therefore I averaged all the prices of all the sizes in the style and came up with an average....and you know what I feel better about it, and in actual fact it hasn't decreased my business at all and customers tell me it's easier for them as well....so in saying, make sure you still work out a pricing structure for yourself, value you as the maker and make sure you pay yourself something....your work is worth something to everyone. x




























Until next time...Craft on!!

Vicki xx

Sunday, 23 October 2011

My local.......

I had to pop down to my local this morning.....That's my local yarn store.  From time to time I have to run down and pop in to the Wool Baa as I've run out of something.....most of my yarn I now buy wholesale, but the Wool Baa has all the bits and bobs I normally need to finish something off.






















The Wool Baa is nestled in Bridport Street, Albert Park amongst all the cute little coffee shops.  It's a fantastic little shopping strip with a village feel to it where A list celebs visit and get left alone, not even the locals bother with them....I've sighted Hugh Jackman, Tom, Katie and Suri, Geoffrey Rush, Guy Pearce, both Minogue sisters just to name a few.... so a hop, skip and jump from me and the place I often take my knitting to on the weekend for a cup of tea and a chat with the wonderful staff who keep me amused with all their woolly stories.

One of the reasons I love this place is the owner Leonie went out on a limb and decided to manufacture her own knitting yarn under the name of Adorn Yarns....it's sold exclusively in her shop and it's a yarn that needs to be highlighted.  She has an 8ply or DK or Sportsweight yarn in merino and silk, a 4ply or fingering weight yarn in merino, silk and cashmere and an 8ply cotton cashmere mix.  Leonie loves colour so she wasn't afraid to be bright with the 8ply and the 4ply for babies has some lovely soft muted colours.

The 8ply silky merino is my favourite...it's machine washable, has an amazing sheen to it from the silk, has the most amazing bounce to it once it's knitted and the colours are fab and I use it for my little textured baby bonnets...this one in Blush Pink.




























And I use the 4ply in some of my Dimple Hats....mostly the silver grey....this gorgeous photo sent in by one of my customers.



























Look at the array of beautiful colours......










































Here's a link to the Wool Baa.  They ship internationally as well as locally and have a great range of other yarns, books, buttons, patterns that Leonie has designed herself and jewellery.

Here's a few more pics from my visit this morning.































































































So if you're ever in Melbourne or in Albert Park pop in and say hi to the girls....get yourself a great coffee and also grab some great Japanese food at my favourite restaurant a bit further up the road called Eis and you never know who you might see down there!


Happy crafting.


vicki x